I’ve stitched an awful lot of canvases in my time, but the Chinese Letter canvases from Raymond Crawford remain among my favorites.

Why?

They come in two sizes of canvas (14 and 18), they have a huge variety of background colors, and there are lots of different characters form which to choose.

So, literally, there is something for everyone here. I’ve made nine of them and eight of those are collected into two classic stitch guides, both available to shops from either Raymond or me.

I also love these because stitching them is such a wonderful way to learn more stitches and learn about needlepoint. And I’ve put that into the guides.Chinese Letters I covers stitches in four families, box (pictured), cross, diagonal, and straight. These families are the basis for the majority of needlepoint stitches. Each of the four samplers has four stitches, one for each quadrant, so a beginner has plenty of time to master the stitch.

Chinese Letters II uses a single stitch for each of the samplers and has four variations of the stitch. The book begins with discussion of how a stitch can be varied and explains how each variation came about. Although this book is slightly more advanced, beginners can still use it. Experienced stitchers will love all the ideas it sparks. I was rereading it earlier this week and got so many good ideas for my current projects.But wait, as the commercials say, there’s more!

I’ve also packed the books with lots of extra reference material about needlepoint.

In Chinese Letters there are short articles about scale in needlepoint (and how to scale a pattern or stitch), compensation, using a stitch dictionary, and using thread with directional light.

In Chinese Letters II besides the introductory essay on stitch variations, there are essays about stripes in needlepoint (with lots of stitch diagrams). a long discussion of borders, and a in-depth discussion of how to “read” a needlepoint canvas and pick appropriate stitches.

These two are among my favorites and I wanted to share them with you. 

Related posts:

1. Raymond Crawford Coasters
2. Why a Custom Stitch Guide?
3. Sip! Gulp! Coaster from Raymond Crawford
4. Free Stitch Guide
5. Don’t Forget my Customized Stitch Guide Service

Why not use a birthday plaid as the background for a monogram?

Birthday plaids and tartans are so much fun, it’s a shame not to make one just because you don’t know what to do with it. Some of my recent commissions give an idea of some of the wonderful things you can do with a stitched plaid.

The boxtop above uses a birthday plaid as the background for a simple monogram. The colors chosen match the room where it will live. Birthday plaids can be done in any colors and are great for this purpose.

You could use this idea for a great baby present. Do it in the nursery’s colors or in a traditional baby palette of pastels.

What about a belt?

Stitch it in perle cotton and finish it as a belt for a unique gift.

The rage for tartan in the 1800′s made lots of tartan-embellished items to appear. Look at some of them for more ideas for stitched plaids. Then visit Needlepoint Plaids to order your tartan or birthday plaid. My experience in creating stitched plaids will create a wonderful result.

Related posts:

1. Announcing Needlepoint Plaids Site
2. Creating a Personal Plaid
3. Plaid Scottie – Sneak Peek
4. Another Way to Make Gingham
5. A Tartan Christmas

Begin by selecting the size for the coasters. Square coasters are vastly easier to make than round coasters (I’ll put some notes about that in a bit). Coasters generally are 3 or 4 inches square, so plan on that for the finished size of the stitching.

Stitches, Threads, & Coasters

Because coasters get sone wear, you will want to use stitches that won’t snag. Because you will be putting something directly on the stitches, you will also want stitches that are flat and not bumpy. This is not the place for smyrna crosses, padding, or exposed canvas.

Every thread you use MUST be colorfast. Glasses are often wet on the bottom or sweat and this moisture will cause non-colorfast threads to bleed.

It’s better if threads are absorbent and somewhat water resistant. This makes wool a fantastic choice for coasters.

I had been thinking that all the ready-made needlepoint coasters I had seen were wool in Tent Stitch because it was cheap to make. That is why, but it turns out, it’s also a good choice.

The Innards & Back of the Coaster

You will need something inside your coaster to give it some strength. The best thing for this is 14 count plastic canvas. It’s strong and flexible. You can cut it to the size you need.

If you want your coaster to be thicker, buy some thing sheets of cork and add them to the inside.

Cut both the plastic canvas and the cork to be 1/4″ smaller than the finished needlepoint.

For a backing you will want something like Ultrasuede, that is rough enough to keep the coaster in place. I like Ultrasuede because you can often find small pieces, it comes in lots of colors, and you can cut it to fit. To begin, cut it slightly large than the finished needlepoint. You’ll trim it later.

Round Coasters

If you want to make round coasters begin by finding plastic canvas rounds that are the size you want. Use one of them as the template for your needlepoint, but stitch about three stitches beyond the outline from the plastic canvas.

The other important difference is in finishing, you will need to clip the unstitched margin of the canvas in order to make the edge smooth. You can find directions in clipping seams in many sewing books and on sewing sites.

Making the Coaster

Assemble the sandwich so that you have the needlepoint on top, then the cork (if you are using it), then the plastic canvas. Make sure the innards are centered on the needlepoint.

Make diagonal cuts at each corner of the needlepoint to reduce bulk. Turn the edges of the needlepoint t the back and temporarily secure with clothespins.

Look at the edges to make sure no canvas shows. If it does, trim your innards a bit to make them smaller then repeat the steps above.

Once you are happy with the edges, lash the needlepoint to the plastic canvas using perle cotton or linen (perle cotton and linen are very strong). Do this one side at a time by removing the clothespin, pulling the needlepoint taut, and then sewing through the margin and the plastic canvas many times to secure it.

Now your coaster needs a backing. Trim your backing to be slightly smaller than the coaster top. With two strands of matching floss, sew the back to the coaster using blind hemstitch or another binding stitch.

YOur coaster is ready to go!

Related posts:

1. Sip! Gulp! Coaster from Raymond Crawford
2. Updated – Link to Quilt Block Coasters
3. Bargello Coasters
4. Plastic Canvas iPod Case – Make it Today, Use it Tomorrow
5. Slurp! – Sneak Peek

Sandy Higgins, self-published, ISBN 978-0-9663617-1-1, $25

I loved the earlier edition of this book and with the new, expanded, edition, there is even more to love.

Sandy is a great finisher and has often taught her techniques at national seminars. In this book she gives you step-by-step instructions for finishing pillows, ornaments, stockings, and lots of other commonly found pieces.

You won’t find explanations for really complex pieces, such as purses, but with this book, a sewing machine, some basic sewing knowledge, and some patience, you’ll be able to finish the vast majority of needlepoint you stitch.

In her introduction Sandy says “Good finishing starts before you begin your project. Careful pre-planning, a good set of instructions, a little practice, and a lot of patience will save you frustration and tears.” Sandy supplies the detailed and wonderful instructions, you supply the rest.

The foundation of finishing is properly blocked needlepoint and the entire first chapter is devoted to this. It begins with a question & answer section, covering many common subjects, such as colorfastness, cleaning, and stains. This is followed with a list of supplies and then step-by-step blocking instructions.

Then come step-by-step instructions for finishing the items, organized into three categories: pillows, Christmas items, and other items. The table of contents divides each chapter into section so you can go directly to the instructions for the item or technique you need.

In addition to the basic finishing instructions there are additional instructions on edge finishes (think ruffles or cording), inserting zippers into pillows, joining needlepoint pieces, and lots of other useful things to make your needlepoint work well.

I love the way Sandy uses simple, clear line drawings to illustrate the finishing process for each item. Today with so many instructions illustrated with photos, the clean abstraction of these little drawings is so helpful. I don’t fins myself distracted by the needlepoint or by not liking the fabric, or thinking the cording is too glitzy; I’m free to think about this finish in terms of my pieces waiting in boxes.

I love this book and it should be a part of any needlepointer’s library who wants to try finishing.

Related posts:

1. Finishing 101 – Needlepoint Book Review
2. Ultimate Big Book of Finishing, Needlework Knowledge and Techniques – book review
3. My Point Exactly – book review
4. Backgrounds: The Finishing Touch – book review
5. Focus on Finishing – Web Site Review

This is the final coaster in a set for Raymond Crawford. Not only are these coasters tons of fun, they will also give you lots and lots of new stitches.

There are four coasters in the set, two in warm colors, two in cool ones. Each one has a different shape for a theme. This one is circles. There are stripes, squares and rectangles, and geodes. I use similar threads but different stitches throughout.

Many of these stitches are fun new variations on familiar stitches. Others will give you good ideas which you can apply to other canvases. This coaster is a case in point. Each color in the circles uses a different method to stitch the circle. Some are simple stitches, others take advantage of unusual threads, still others use Jean Hilton stitches or outlinging techniques.

I’m so excited about this guide because it’s like a mini stitch dictionary in a guide.

Related posts:

1. Needledeeva Nativity Shepherd – sneak peek
2. Lighting the Way – Sneak Peek
3. Williamsburg Needle Case Sneak Peek
4. Rooster — Sneak Peek
5. Square Mini-egg Sneak Peek

I just finished this coaster this morning and wanted to share it with you. It’s one of four by Raymond M. Crawford. The other ones say Sip! Gulp! and Slurp! I only have Slurp! left to do.

Each one uses a different shape for its graphic elements and each stitch in each coaster is different.

The stitch guide is going to be a ton of fun, with all these really cool stitches and effects.

Slurp! which I’m just starting is all circles and will be challenging to do as making good circles in needlepoint is challenging.

As a result I’m stitching the background first.

I’ve been writing and writing but most of the guides I’m doing right now are a bit long, so I can’t cross things off my list.

Oh well.

Related posts:

1. Sip! Gulp! Coaster from Raymond Crawford
2. Slurp! – Sneak Peek
3. Stitch Guide Classic – Raymond Crawford’s Chinese Letters
4. Quilt Block Coasters with Stitch Guides
5. Updated – Link to Quilt Block Coasters

It’s no secret that I simply adore Jan Fitzpatrick’s needlepoint adaptations of classic quilt blocks, I showed you another color version of this one in the Quilt Block Twinchy Gallery. I have also written about her wonderful needlepoint interpretation of a Moroccoan rug.

She’s getting ready to make several of the quilt patterns available in a project pack (out in January) and she has a post about one of them, Bear’s Paw on her blog. This design has four of the blocks arranged in a circular pattern with a glorious sashing using an overdyed thread.

I just love it and have been doing some needlepoint daydreams about the lovely pieces I can make using so many of the threads in my stash. I have a great cotton knitting yarn. which is strandable in turquoise, brown, and lime green (trust me it works), which would be so perfect for this.

I even have a couple of coasters in my stash of finishing items, so I’m all set to go as soon as the pattern is ready. I can hardly wait!

Related posts:

1. Two Needlepoints and a Quilt
2. Needlepoint Quilt Block Gift Tags – New Free Pattern
3. August Twinchy Challenge – Quilt Blocks
4. Quilt Block Twinchies Gallery
5. Turning Quilt Patterns into Needlepoint

My plan is to offer one project per month. The packet will include line-drawn canvas, instructions and, possibly, threads (I’m still debating that one).

One aspect of the club will be color, and it’s use in needlepoint. Each of the color schemes I use will be explored in two of the projects. You’ll not only see the scheme in use, you’ll learn about it and get ideas for how to make this type of color scheme on your own.

Now to the choices:

Little Bargello Treasures – An eclectic mix of Bargello projects, including cupcakes, items for personal accessories, and other shapes filled with Bargello. The emphasis in this will be on different types of Bargello patterns.

Exploring Threads – These will be designs of various kinds in 3″ round ornaments. The emphasis here will be on learning about different types of threads, including some traditionally not used for needlepoint. And on picking the right thread (and stitch) to depict many types of items. The designs will be in rounds, but not holiday-oriented. The 3″ round can be used in many of the Lee and Stirling items, so you can finish them yourself.

Stitches and Quilt Blocks — The endlessly fascinating world of needlepoint stitches will be explored using quilt blocks for each of the programs. Quilt blocks have the advantage of requiring little compensation, so you can learn the stitch, and are an easy way to explore color.

The poll wasn’t working, so I removed the poll. Just let me know in the comments.

Related posts:

1. Color, Threads & Quilts – 2011 Needlepoint Club
2. Stitches & Quilt Blocks — Next Year’s Club
3. Color, Threads, and Quilts – 2011 Club
4. Little Bargello Treasures – 2011 Bargello Club
5. Last Day for Early Bird Price on Stash Club

I love Raymond Crawford’s designs. This is the fourth(!) set of stitch guides I’m wokring on for him and the second set of coasters.

This set is so fun. Each coaster has a drink word (Drink! Sip! Slurp! Gulp!) and each uses a different kind of shape, either in cool or hot colors.

Sip & Gulp are in warm color. Sip has stripes, Gulp rectangles.

Drink and Gulp are in cool colors. Drink is as you see above, Gulp has circles.

Each colored box on each coaster is using a different stitch and there are four different backgrounds stitches as well.

Several of the stitches are brand new (I designed them) and there is also a wealth of threads used. This means that besides being a delightful stitch guide, the book will make a great reference guide. I’m especially excited about all the different ways to deal with circles, a problem I always have.

I have had so much fun stitching them, I can’t wait to do more. I’ll post Gulp sometime after I start it.

The book ought to be available for your shop to order (from Raymond) sometime over the summer — I’m hoping for TNNA next month.

Related posts:

1. Raymond Crawford Coasters
2. Stitch Guide Classic – Raymond Crawford’s Chinese Letters
3. How to Make a Coaster
4. Amazing Needlepointer – Raymond Dockstader
5. TNNA Preview – Stitch Guides from Napa Needlepoint

Related posts:

1. Quilt Block Coasters with Stitch Guides
2. Bargello Coasters
3. Raymond Crawford Coasters
4. Quilt Block Twinchies Gallery
5. Great Quilt Pattern Adaptation